Gå till innehåll

aclark79

Korpral
 Visa profil  Visa deras aktivitet

  • Innehålls Antal

    35

  • Gick med

  • Besökte senast

  • Dagar Vunna

    12

 Innehållstyp 

Allt postat av aclark79

  1. aclark79
    Thanks for the excellent information. Bumping so others can add their photos as well.
  2. aclark79
    Outstanding, send me some more and I'll add em to the dropbox!
  3. aclark79
    And a couple more robots for good measure
  4. aclark79
    And the Robots plus a few offs and ends
  5. aclark79
    Lets start with the older 90mm variant 90 mm Army Service 1.bmp 90 mm Army Service 14.bmp
  6. aclark79
    Well hello! I am hoping this will be a thread where people can post pictures of their TGB 1111 as well as any stories. The first link is a drop box repository of every most TGB 1111 picture I've found on the web sorted by 90mm vs Anti-Tank missile sub sorted by any army unit number. Please add pictures and I'll download and add them to the drop box. I think it makes a great reference for someone looking to purchase, explore or set up their own, either stock or another configuration. Every TGB 1111 I've found on the web If you see yours them please speak up! Some of these are pretty low res pictures, especially the earlier army service pictures. If you have a good high quality photo I'd love to replace or supplement what's already there.
  7. aclark79
    I'm trying to find a battery box table, by which I mean the table that went above the battery cover on the TGB 1111. You can see it on the floor in this picture, the table with a grid bottom. Also if anyone has some Unit signs they are looking to sell I can make a good home for them. Any of the military parts that someone might have such as the cross brace or a clear instrument panel mud guard etc etc I'm trying to find. Contact via Personal Message
  8. aclark79
    fixed the link in the last post, please check out every TGB1111 photo I've been able to find over the last few years.
  9. aclark79
    Here are a few more recent photos from Mogfest 2019: In the never ending quest of fixing things since the last update I've done the following (or my mechanic has!) Retimed the ignition, no more pinging Dropped the fuel tank and fixed a split seam, the inside was coated by the Army before demobilization and is in fantastic shape bypassed the inline mechanical fuel pump, replaced with a electirc pump at the tank, pushing instead of pulling, two inline filters, bypassed the float bowl and rerouted to avoid overheating the fuel (vapor lock) Replaced the leaf springs on the front after cracking the left front spring. Replaced the CV boot on the right side twice, now with loctite on the bolts. Adjusted the turn stop limiter, it was kinda mushed and turning to far left. Replaced a number of light bulbs, experimented with LED bulbs which have not worked on the rear lights, not enough impedance to trip the systems. Braided paracord grab handles for the back and passenger side to ease getting in. Things to do, replace the front shocks, one is broken. Replace the left rear brake cylinder, very slow leak. Install a screen on the radiator opening to prevent grass / etc from entering I still have some electrical problems, the fuse for the power ports blows immediately when turned on and I have no power at the 24v plus in the cab, the front of the blackout light box. Honestly not sure where to start trying to fix that. I have an inverter installed and can get power for a GPS or a phone that way, but I'd rather have the ports working. Does anyone have a lead on the table that sat over the battery box on the TGB 1111, for measurements. It was a simple table with a drop down leg, a metal grate patern bottom. I've seen it in pictures but never in real life. I'd love to buy one, but would fab one up otherwise if I had measurements. Also, here's a link to every TGB 1111 photo I've ever found on the web and some other resources: Every TGB 1111 I've found on the web
  10. aclark79
    Trucks been running great, up until the distributor on the new electronic ignition burned and started sputtering. I thought it was a carb issue, a torn baffle, but it was in the end a very easy fix. The backup light's plastic switch on the engine disintegrated, so I've got it wired up to a spare headlight switch that went into one of the open slots on the dash. I fixed my dyslexic spelling of wiper fluid and coolant, that was a little embarrassing. I also got an adapter finished for an RPD, which I've mounted occasionally in the M240 mount. I don't drive around town like that though! The great news is that the hubs and axles are in top shape, no leaks, no sign of wear. I'd still like to find a source for some of the Swedish Army metal vehicle identification signs, are there any surplus stores in Sweden that sell them? Mogfest is this weekend, I'll take a bunch of pictures and post them up afterwards.
  11. aclark79
    Yes, thank you. That is what I mean. Due to the age/previous use, poor preventive maintenance? For whatever reason all the plugs for the front power ports, and the rear port on the right hand side rear lamp are broken. I have simple plastic plugs in them that work in a pinch, but I'd like to have proper ones again.
  12. aclark79
    Yes, sadly.... my dyslekia kicked in, even though I was taking it directly from the original. No one here will know the difference, but I'll know! So I fixed it and ordered new stickers. Thankfully they are very inexpensive here in the US, under 10 dollars shipped for the two stickers, so nothing is really hurt except my pride.
  13. aclark79
    She's running great. Painting is 95 percent done. Touch up needed in a few places. Got the hydraulic arms installed and can use the box without fearing for my fingers. So much fun to drive and quiet again! Temporary grill guard:
  14. aclark79
    https://doityourselflettering.com/create/?LoadDesign=1278985&Conf=708669 https://doityourselflettering.com/create/?LoadDesign=1350211&Conf=231556 https://doityourselflettering.com/create/?LoadDesign=1350212&Conf=994403 (with correct spelling now) If these links are a help to anyone that is awesome. I wasn't able to find anything original, it was silly of me to think 40 year old decals would be available right? I took plenty of measurements before sanding the truck which destroyed the old decals. I think these are a very close match, although they are not 100 percent exact. Original: New decals:
  15. aclark79
    I wanted to give an update and ask a few questions regarding some odds and end parts. First the bad/good news. I had a pretty bad exhaust manifold leak and my timing was shot. I ended up having almost no power and I couldn't even get her up a hill except by crawling in first gear. It was pretty awful. The fix was way past my skill level, but thankfully there is a fantastic mechanic in my town who's hobby is restoring old Volvo car's with just this engine. I'm very happy to report that I'm back in business. Now there is a new electric ignition and both exhaust manifold leaks fixed. Engine is running strong and the timing is set. The other good news for me is we identified the hoses that were in danger of breaking (due to age) and replaced the hub seals for the portals. It's not pretty yet and there's still body work to do, but it's drive able again. I've also made contact with a guy who's going to let me use his paint booth at his company to finish paint. Then I can work on getting the decals back on, adding the grip tape to the rocket storage box and adding a radio and those other minor things. They are also going to make me a "table" that goes over the battery box. Question: Is there a source for the hydraulic arms that hold up the rocket box cover when it's in the open position. I can't find a parts list specifically for the 1111. Does anyone know which part this is or the specs for it? Is there a source for the 24v outlet covers? All mine were either broken or broke due to age. Lastly, anyone ever sell the heavy camouflage cover? Thanks again everyone! I still have yet to get her stuck anywhere.
  16. aclark79
    Thanks JDW, I'll use this link in the post to make my sign!
  17. aclark79
    Thanks Andreas! I do occasionally get questions about if I'm in the Army or where it comes from. The usual guess is that it's either a Pinz from Switzerland or it's German. No one has guessed Sweden correctly although a few old Volvo car enthusiasts have guessed Volvo correctly. It's all been smiles, waves and thumbs up so far. I made friends with a fellow on facebook who's going to help me find some unit insignia placards to put in the holders as well as get a correct number plate made.
  18. aclark79
    Haven't gotten to do any real trouble shooting yet. I am pretty sure I need to adjust my ignition timing and I'm going to install an electronic ignition. I did some photos for a guy who has a blog about interesting trucks. You can see on the undercaridge where I want to clean and paint anti-rust on the material. I'm pretty amazed at how much flex the truck has. I'm sure I could have gone furthur on this loading ramp, but I chickened out! That's only 15 degrees on my little incline meter in the cab. It sure felt like more and I wanted to go further, but I chickened out!
  19. aclark79
    Ok, I'll get underneath all the dash panels and take pictures and examine all the connections and report back. I'll also go to the local store that specializes in screws and fasteners and get more of the special washers.
  20. aclark79
    Haven't tracked down the problem yet... grounding issue? Maybe. It's been pretty terrible weather out and I just haven't been motivated to do the testing needed to track down the issue. I did figure a good use for the machine gun but stock holder. Don't worry, it's root beer. In reference to the earlier posts, I'm confused on how the dash screws act as a ground. Right now they aren't screwed in at all so I can get behind the dash to trouble shoot. Maybe that's the problem itself. There were only two screws with the special washer, although it looked like all 4 of the dash screws could have had them. Does it make a difference? All the relays got replaced with new ones, although it seems the old relays were working fine. I also checked all the fuses again and they are fine. I have not gotten into the area behind the heating pannel, I'm not sure what to look for, would you mind posting a picture? Tomorrow I'll take some pictures of mine and post it.
  21. aclark79
    Ok a couple of technical questions as I try to trouble shoot things. Problem 1 is my rear locker light is not coming on, on the dash when I engage the lever arm. When I disengage it I hear the vacuum noise as the air flows through just like the front locker, the light just isn't coming on. Is there a simple solution to verify the locker is working without just changing the light? The 4x4 light and the front locker light is working fine. Problem 2, the more serious issue. When I put on the new headlights I was a dummy and left the key on and it blew the 150w step up / step down relay. Then the headlights didn't work. I was able to swap the relay and the headlights work, but now I have these issues: Running lights (parking lights, the white ones in front and lower red in back) are always on when the battery is on regardless of headlight switch position Warning hazard lights only work if the headligh switch is in position 2 or 3 turn signals work fine brake lights work fine backup (reverse) lights don't work at all I had the housing for the backup light powder coated, and thought maybe it was a grounding issue. I ground a little of the coating off to bare metal, but that didn't help, also i tested and got no voltage at the backup light at all (when the shifter is in reverse). I tested all the fuses, they are good and voltage is flowing across the fuse board. All the relays above the fuse board were swapped with new ones and that made no change. Originally one of the wires on the blackout light switch had come loose and I plugged that back in, then the headlights started working, so that and the blown 150w relay was what was causing that to stop working. I'm at a loss where to start looking for a reason for the running lights to always be on right now and the backup not to work. Is it a grounding issue?
  22. aclark79
    My posts got moved to it's own thread, rightly so! So here is a repost of my truck in its pre-paint and post paint state.
  23. aclark79
    So all the lights worked before I plugged the new headlights in when the key was on. My fault. Now even with the old headlights the backup doesn't work and the parking lights (I would call them running lights) are on all the time when the battery switch is on. Also the hazards only work when the headlight switch is in position 2 or 3. The rear backup light metal housing got powder coated, so I thought maybe that was a grounding issue, but I filed down the coating to expose metal and it made no difference and I see no voltage on those wires on the multi meter. On the dash panel two of the 4 screws had the weird toothed washers. The other two did not. I think maybe they were dropped sometime in the Army? I have not added two more and I'm using the original screws. One of the wires (the lowest of the wires) on the blackout light switch had fallen off, but I reconnected it and the initial failure of the headlights went away. The relays above the fuses have all be swapped and tested and swapped out and it seems to make no difference. I tested every fuse and they are all visually working and work on a continuity test on a multi meter. The 150a on the right of the fuse block was bad and has a new one now. The headlights work on high and low now. I refurbed the sheet metal on the exterior of the truck, but not on the interior... I don't think I made any changes to any places where a ground was attached, but I may have in ignorance.
  24. aclark79
    Thanks all! I've been to Sweden three times now, once in high school when I was 16 and twice as an adult visiting friends from flight school. I am looking forward to coming back in the summer and maybe this time doing some offroading! The last time was in 2010. My friend Daniel studied helicopter aviation in the US and then converted his license to a JAA and flies in Sweden now. I was able to visit him and had a great time. We went to a former military bunker / aviation base which was very cool, but is now decommissioned and is a museum. It was really cold. like really cold. I was cold. Then we went to the castle at the island nearby... but it was so cold they closed it down! That was sad because I'm a big nerd and love history and wanted to see the inside of the castle. 1694... that's what... 100 years before there was an America, give or take a few 10's of years. Thankfully some nice Swedish ladies helped me overcome my disappointment. Did I mention it was cold. That's Daniel on the left. Anyway, Sweden is awesome and Volvos are awesome. Merry Christmas and more posts in the new year.
  25. aclark79
    Nice, thanks. Based on recommendations from another owner I think my problem is a grounding issue, I'm hoping in fact that is all it is.
×
×
  • Skapa nytt...