Sugga #443

[Costin Moga]

ENGINE REBUILD 4

[Finnsebbe]

Impressive work you've done! Very good documentation too! Thank you very much for this topic.

[Costin Moga]

BODY

 

Meanwhile, at the body shop...

Chassis was send to body shop and work started with body on it. In the same time we were working on the engine.

Remember axles were already overhauled ?

 

Floor had to be replaced, same with doors panels and over-the-wheels arch metal sheet.

Trunk edge was to be reconstructed.

 

Check it out:

[Costin Moga]

ROLLING CHASSIS

 

There we are putting all parts together. Finally !

Engine hoisted up, transfer case bolted on, axles sweeped underneath the chassis - there you go !

 

Not mentioning all bits & pieces (like pedals for instance) which were cleaned and painted prior mounting.

And all hoses replaced with new.

 

Check the look of the chassis on the flatbed through city chaotic traffic on the way to bodyshop...

[Panks]

I love this thread! Great documentation of all the work you have put in to this overhaul 

[Wingflyer]

I agree with Panks. There are some really exceptional renovation threads on this forum, but you have certainly set a new benchmark. Your posts have become almost adactive! :-) Can't wait to see your project completed!

[Costin Moga]

STEERING

 

There are some detailed picture I want to show you of the steering box.

 

I had it rebuild, oil seal replaced. Cleaned and painted, of course. Mounted on chassis and topped with oil.

Steering rod was serviced, ball joints replaced (ALTYCO) and greased.

 

Steering wheel bearing replaced, yes.

 

[Costin Moga]

INTERIOR

 

We got the chassis + body back from bodyshop and work started on the interior. Meanwhile electrics had to be done too.

 

All wires were installed before any work started on the body. New fuse panel(s) bolted and all unnecessary old bits removed. Car has now an alternator (remember original dynamo was missing) from a LandRover which includes a regulator so all big electrical boxes were put aside for storage. These are not to be thrown away, but kept alongside the vehicle to keep it as complete as possible, allowing, at one time, to get it back 100% original. Have to mention, operating an alternator based vehicle, rather than a dynamo one, is way much safer and trouble free, especially town driving.

 

As for the interior, I decided to go for more comfy, therefore heat and soun insulation was fitted. Bitumen/aluminium sheet StP (similar to Dynamatt) plus a special insulation for the floor, same StP plus a self-adhesive neoprene sheet for the roof.

Grey vinyl for the seats and door panels.

Grey carpet + rubber mats on the floor.

Light grey cloth for roof upholstery.

 

For fixing the roof upholstery, new wood frame was installed on sides and around the roof hatch, as depicted.

 

Table and dividing panel were removed and glass replaced the metal 'windows' behind the rear doors.

 

Special insulation was applied on the firewall (engine side) for better soundproofing. I painted it grey to blend with the car. This replaced the original cork sheet.

 

Seats were refurbished (cleaned, sandblasted, new vinyl). We kept the original seegrass and did not replaced it with sponge.

[Costin Moga]

INTERIOR

[Costin Moga]

INTERIOR

[Costin Moga]

INTERIOR

[Costin Moga]

INSTRUMENTS

 

Instruments from original dash:

 

Speedometer - working but cable distroyed.  A new cable was ordered (http://instrumentjige.se/) and replaced. Now working fine.

 

Oil pressure - working fine.

 

Upgrading to alternator meant ammeter is no longer needed. Left there to fill the gap....

 

Tachometer not working. I managed to start it but after mounting back the panel it did not work again. My guess is it need a bit of cleaning, that's all. On waiting list.

 

Fuel gauge not working. Impossible to repair. I purchased a new 'universal' one and tried to couple the sender unit to the gauge. As expected. it did not work, these are not calibrated. The new gauge was mounted in special suport under the metal dash. Interesting, the sender unit was a straight fit in the five original holes in the petrol tank.

 

Temperature gauge not working - pipe broken. Can be rebuild but it's expensive. On the to-do list. I replaced it with modern instrument, gauge mounted under dash.

 

Rev counter fitted with gauge under dash.

 

All parts available on ebay.co.uk.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Beau]

:) Will we see the wall between frontseats and rearseats and the radiotable in coming pictures?

 

 

[Costin Moga]

Nope - wall was removed for good.

I might put back the table but without any wall (probably fix it to the door pillars).

Wall is gone bye-bye.

[H.Hansen]

Unbelievable what a job , but it gets enormously fine 

Thank you so much for all the lovely photos and that you share everything you've done with us 

[Costin Moga]

Gauges used on dash are DURITE:

 

http://www.durite.co.uk/pdf/2014/5/05.06_Equipment_and_Accessories-Dashboard_gauges_and_accessories_and_marine_gauges.pdf

[Costin Moga]

LIGHTING

 

Front:

 

- headlights were replaced with new 7"

- side indicator was fitted by previous owner (for UK regulation I guess) - I kept it

 

 

Tail:

 

- new HELLA OVAL (ebay) installed for stop + indicator

- some motorcycle roundish tail + stop were fitted where the convoi / blackout markers stood (car came without those)

- RUBBOLITE indicators fitted above as depicted

- fog light on left side

- rear march on right side

 

On tail they work like this: indicators Hella + Rubbolite, tail on roundish motorcycle and stop on both roundish motorcycle and Hella

 

Numberplate kept original.

Original indicators kept and working. Original replacements still available for sale, but these do not come cheap: http://volvoonderdelen.com/PV444/Verlichting/Knipperlicht-PV444PV544210-Fixlight-zwart-set-a-2-st-richtinga-1902/

[Costin Moga]

I attached also the drawings of the headlights 'protection' which I had rebuild. I know these were not ment to be protections for the headlight glass but were to support blackout covers.

 

 

front.pdf

left.pdf

sablon.pdf

top.pdf

[Wingflyer]

Costin Moga, Please consider adding the drawings to the Forum Document Area under:

 

Dokument - Verkstadshandböcker och manualer - Volvo Sugga...

 

I you prefer, I can assist.

 

Rgds

 

Wingflyer

Moderator

[tator]

the wall is a part of the strenght of the body strukture. In my car was the wall removed before i got it and the firewall has a lot of cracks and damage coused of the flex in the body structure. I also had a problem whidt the doors dont fit properly in the opening. So i had put the wall back in place in my car. And now , the flex in the body strukture is gone. The doors fit properly in the openings, even in bumps and in the terrain.

[Costin Moga]

I thought about the wall beeing part of the structure before removing it and my conclusion is it is not. Even spoke to someone who removed it and asked his opinion - he said he had no problem whatsoever about it.

Using the car on and off road with the wall removed proved it does not afect the body. At least in my car.

Doors close corectly, no problem.

Let's not forget body sits on a very strong chassis, and, if all rubber mounts are in place it will be leveled on it, therefore it will not deform unless the chassis deform.

I agree it gives a little bit of extra strength in the body just by existing there, but not very much

PV 60 has no wall, and I'm not sure about the TPV, but I thing it doesn't either. A lot of cars do not have this wall, actually the majority.

There are some reinforcements in the roof not related to the wall. It only touches half hight of the door pillars.

My plan to reinstall the table will help getting back the little extra strength, not that I need it, no. I consider it just for the looks.

Table will be fixed on the door pillars and the center of  the floor, working as a V shape structure between those 3 points.

We'll see about that.

 

Anyway, the front door pillars are subject to intensive rust. They have a reinforcement inside of their own. This is very important in my opinion to get right.

And all rubber mounts between chassis and body for proper levelling.

 

Beeing an architect, I often work with, modify or even remove non-structural dividing walls from inside buildings. This can be done as structure engineers do not count on them as part of structure in an earthquake for instance (and we have a lot of those !). But they give just a little bit of extra stifness, though. Just a little bit. Non structural.

 

That's my opinion. Hope I'm not wrong as I'm no expert in car building.

[Costin Moga]

SPEEDOMETER

 

Here is the drawing of the 'art-deco' speedometer dash.

Mine was absolutelly intact, and never thought doing it new, but the moment I took the glass off it, some 30% of the pain pealed off. I put it instantly on the scanner and got an image of what was left.

Then redrew all digits and reprinted it on glass.

 

There is also an image of the speedometer cable showing it's ends.

 

I cannot upload other formats needed if one wants to reprint the speedometer (Corel Draw drawing is required) but if anyone wants them, they're available.

 

Wingflyer, can you help with this ?

[Wingflyer]

Absolutely, will do!

[Vinkon]

Very very impressive work!

[Costin Moga]

BITS & PIECES

 

Few picts of some parts during cleaning , brushing, greasing, painting, whatsoever...

 

- pedals

- transfer case levers

- door windows operating mechanisms

- pieces of engine starter