Translastion help on fuses

[aclark79]

So... google translate has failed me on trying to translate the fuse block on my TGB1111.  Would someone be willing to translate the two pictures attached?

 

Thank you!

 

The truck is doing well, very happy with the paint job overall, but I really want to do another coat when it stops raining all the time, before adding the decals back on. 

 

[Vinkon]

Hi

 

I hope this first draft helps.

If I messed up with either of them I'm sure that someone will point it out, since I'm not a c303-guy myself. (like the radio-stuff)

For instance I'm not sure what the car heater (bilvärmare) implies...

 

If you see any faulty spelling please inform me

 

(click on them in order to see them in a bigger format)

[snetok]

Thank you, too, suffered from the transfer.

[JDW]

#7 Some radio stuff" can also be interpreted as "24V poweroutlet, front, inside (Bosch socket) and car radio*"  

 

(LUFOR is a SWE military term for an FM band information system about air activity)

[aclark79]

You guys are awesome. 

 

I will get my multi meter out and test the outlets soon.  There are 24v ports on the front, 3 in fact, one at the rear right tail light and one on the dash.  If there are any others I haven't found them.  I haven't found a port yet where the radio would have been, but I haven't looked very hard back there either. 

 

When you translate rear light, would that also be break light correct?  We would normally say back up light instead of reverse light, but it makes complete sense. 

 

I am not familiar enough to know the electrical system yet, so I'm looking at the write up and think the diff lock fuse is for both diffs and the front wheel drive controls the action of the vacuum for the 4x4? 

 

One fuse does the light in the lamp, one does the actual 4x4 engaging?  What is the magnet valve?  That's the part that causes the fail safe 4x4 to disengage right?

 

Thanks again all.

[Vinkon]

...

When you translate rear light, would that also be break light correct?  We would normally say back up light instead of reverse light, but it makes complete sense. 

...

Not sure. Usually bakljus refers to the entire light assembly for of one of the rear "light housings".

But since brake light and the other functions are accounted for my guess is that it's built in black out lights and number plate light.

The already stated black out light left & right side are probably the ones you can mount in the front.

 

Back up light, check

[aclark79]

Nice, thanks.

 

Based on recommendations from another owner I think my problem is a grounding issue, I'm hoping in fact that is all it is.

[Klas_B]

Referring to grounding issues, please note that almost all signal currents for the relays need a proper grounding of the speedo panel. Thats why toothed washers are used on the countersunk (pressed sheetmetal) holes to ensure god metal-to-metal contact when tightened. My thinking is that if you are refurbishing the sheetmetal surfaces and re-coat them you may have grounding issues?

 

Another known issue is poor contact on the connectors attached to the old bakelite (phenoplast) fusebox. Bakelite has some known ageing/shape change issues.

 

Best

 

Klas

[aclark79]

So all the lights worked before I plugged the new headlights in when the key was on.  My fault.

 

Now even with the old headlights the backup doesn't work and the parking lights (I would call them running lights) are on all the time when the battery switch is on.  Also the hazards only work when the headlight switch is in position 2 or 3. 

 

The rear backup light metal housing got powder coated, so I thought maybe that was a grounding issue, but I filed down the coating to expose metal and it made no difference and I see no voltage on those wires on the multi meter.

 

 

On the dash panel two of the 4 screws had the weird toothed washers.  The other two did not.  I think maybe they were dropped sometime in the Army?  I have not added two more and I'm using the original screws.  One of the wires (the lowest of the wires) on the blackout light switch had fallen off, but I reconnected it and the initial failure of the headlights went away.

 

The relays above the fuses have all be swapped and tested and swapped out and it seems to make no difference.  I tested every fuse and they are all visually working and work on a continuity test on a multi meter.  The 150a on the right of the fuse block was bad and has a new one now.  The headlights work on high and low now.

 

I refurbed the sheet metal on the exterior of the truck, but not on the interior... I don't think I made any changes to any places where a ground was attached, but I may have in ignorance.