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Marc-X

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  1. Kanske läge att klippa upp ögonhål i ett lakan, innfinna sig på området och flaxa runt lite framför hästarna både på Fredag och Lördag så att dom aldrig finner på något sådant igen?
  2. Jag kan ordna fram axlar. Bara gå före mig ner för källartrappan här...
  3. Haha, ja detta är ett solklart fall där våld löser problemet. Någon nämnde just att de knackade loss locket underifrån efter att ha lossat "muttern " som sitter under taket. Vi får se hur det går men det betyder att det förhoppningsvis inte är någon rörgänga att oroa sig för som jag misstänkte förra gången jag var där och petade...
  4. Det låter som om din allhjulsdrift ligger i permanent men också diff spärr... Svårigheter att svänga orsakad av allhjulsdrift har jag inte upplevt men det smäller bra med allhjulsdrift på torrt underlag om man inte passar på rullomkretsen. Märker du tydlig skillnad med och utan spärrarna inkopplade? ///M5
  5. Jag försöker inte demontera antennen men MONTERA antennen så det är "locket" över hålet i taket där antennfoten skall stå som jag inte får bort (enkelt). Det du har bild på ser för övrigt inte ut som antennfoten till en C3. Var kommer den ifrån? Det som främst skiljer din från mina två är de metallringar med fyra genomgående bultar. Jag hade gärna sett att mina fötter oxå hade dem men det har dem alltså inte...
  6. Tjena! Tja, som rubriken säger... Är detta "lock" gängat eller skall det hålla med att man plockar bort insexskruven i kanten på locket och petar bort det? Jag har prövat "allt" utan att använda någon kraft än så länge. Jag ville vara säker på att kraften brukas på rätt sätt. Det var en stund sen jag försökte med detta och minns inte allt jag provade men i morgon blir det montering av 3 antenner! (jupp, fick tag på rubbet och i fint skick med de "nya" Comrod antennerna och en LUFOR på 250 cm) ///M5
  7. Det är inte det att du har spänningar i chassit pgav fyrhjulsdrift på torrt underlag? Detta fenomen uppkommer när du har minsta avvik i rullomkrets på fram och bakhjulen för att det saknas diff på kardanen. Smällen kommer av att en spänning bygger upp sig och får ramen att "flexa". ///M5
  8. I'm not aware of any such script. This is Facebook to Forum cut and paste. ///M5
  9. Mike Fox EXAMPLE: Mark, see: http://www.terrangbil.net/forum/index.php?app=forums&module=post&section=post&do=new_post&f=11 7 minutes ago · Like
  10. Mike Fox Nice to hear I could be of help to you bro! The electric system is perhaps the most vulnerable part of our vehicles since this have seen little or no maintenance since production. The Swedish climate fixes the rest. In the future I'm going to post replies to questions like this in the forum @ terrangbil.net so that everyone can benefit from it. Posts at Facebook has a short shelf life as everyone know. I would like to suggest that if questions are posted here a topic is created at terrangbil.net and linked in the reply post here at facebook if the person asking the question haven't already done so. This is going to be my humble attempt to create a more lively international part at the ORIGINAL Tgb forum. I have no benefits from pushing for terrangbil.net I'm doing it because I feel it being the correct way to do things. Cheers! 15 minutes ago · Like
  11. Mark Douglas Yep! Mike Fox really did it again saving me hours! he is invaluable to this forum as far as I am concerned. about an hour ago · Like
  12. Mark Douglas Just walked in from surgery => all I have to say is Mike Fox nailed it yet again. One wire on the pressure contact mounted on the Aux Gear box was completely disconnected. Exactly what was one of the possibilities suspected by Mike. It was all greasy, I cleaned it, de-greased it and reconnected (all 4). Plus the pressure contact was loose... so tightened it down. Working like a champ. Also in the turn signal issue, I found another disconnected wire under the instrument panel. (I was also de-greasing and lubing up all the gear switching components). Took her for a test drive (two of them) and all is working great. I need to replace the front diff diaphragm (I have 4 extra polyethylene). replaced the warrning bulb on the front-wheel drive. I need to get some new bulb sockets from Claes Hellbom. about an hour ago · Edited · Like
  13. Mike Fox Yo, Mark! Any news about the patient yet? 4 hours ago via mobile · Like
  14. Mark Douglas no carcass here 18 hours ago · Like
  15. Mike Fox The spare parts issue was more to help you dispose of the carcass in a sensible and environmentally correct manner. 18 hours ago via mobile · Like
  16. Mark Douglas yep, checked fuses (will check with meter on connection sides of each again). on the awd: looks like if something gets funky in the push-button switch and ground is open... I won't get 24v to ground. So I'll check the switch posts (I'm ordering a new switch anyway as it's almost 40 years old anyway) to see if it's letting 24v pass to the solenoid when off. checking the transfer box switch is a good idea too. Thanks for the advice and the luck. (no comment on the spare parts wish you have) 18 hours ago · Like
  17. Mike Fox Check your relays under the instrument cluster. I.I.r.c the turn signal indicator can be affected if one of them is faulty. I had a similar issue once where the emergency blinker / hazard lights still worked while the turn signal didn't. Don't remember clearly now. I think that the blinker relay is ok if the hazard lights works. I guess that you have checked the fuses after your blinkers quit on you? Regarding the awd fuckup there's nothing else to do but start tracing the control voltage to the solenoid. I don't remember the exact signal path but you'll find the schematic in the RTFM book quite helpful. Checking for voltage on both sides of the red push button switch might be a good idea. Also check the switch on the transfer gear box. (backside of transfer box, next to handbrake drum). There's four wire connections. If one of them have come loose you will lose maneuver voltage to the solenoid. Check the schematic and you will find the usual suspects. It will also tell you in what order you should check in order to trace the path. Good luck! (if you are unsuccessful I might be able to house your useless vehicle in my spare parts box. Just send it here) 20 hours ago via mobile · Like
  18. Mark Douglas yes, I have vacuum on the diffs. the back holds and the front seems to leak as I don't hear the release when it blows out. Also... looks like I Do NOT get 24v on the Solenoid under any condition. I looked at the switch and see 24v on the light; however, I don't see good readings on the other polls. I need to check more in the morning. Also... since I was poking around, my blinker don't seem to be working now. (seems my emergency flashers still work... not sure if that means my flasher relay is still good or not) 20 hours ago · Like
  19. Mike Fox Do you have vacuum? Does the diff locks work? Indicator light should indicate working vacuum actuation. 23 hours ago via mobile · Like
  20. Mike Fox ... Alternatively bypass the solenoid so that you get vacuum to the clutch bell. 23 hours ago via mobile · Like
  21. Mike Fox If you have to drive before your issue is sorted you should remove the front prop shaft. 23 hours ago via mobile · Like
  22. Mike Fox †... tires ARE... 23 hours ago via mobile · Like
  23. Mike Fox The danger is that you get tremendous stress in the chassi if your ties is even slightly different in circumference and that is one thing you can be sure of. You hear it as periodic "clonks" when driving on paved road with awd engaged. YOU SHOULD NOT USE AWD ON PAVED ROAD IF NOT SLIPPERY!!! 23 hours ago via mobile · Like
  24. Mike Fox NP! Good luck. Sorry I couldn't give you more precise instructions but I actually don't remember when the solenoid is actuated and not. Logic says it should be relaxed and therefore have no power when awd is engaged. Can't say for sure though. Too tired to think. 23 hours ago via mobile · Like
  25. Mark Douglas BTW: are there any issues with being in awd when on the freeway? can this truck be driven with front wheel drive and going 55mph? any danger? 23 hours ago · Like
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