Costin Moga

Now the Sugga, has a little brother...

When you find out you're not the biggest on the road...

Cols start at - 3 C. Electric fuel pump + electronic ignition https://www.youtube.com/results?sp=EgIIAQ%253D%253D&q=volvo+tp21

...

They haven't changed since day one ! Shackle angle looks the same... It's much better than before, especially on small bumps on the road and off road at moderate speed (30/h). Sleeping policeman still a problem, though... Need to upgrade the back ones too and mount some decent shocks with double effect both on extension and compression, this will help a lot !

Danube - 18 - 19 sept 2016

This weekend, last of the summer as for weather, our club (Retromobil Club Romania) organised a camping trip on a beautifull beach at the Danube. 18 vintage 4x4 vehicles attended the meeting: ARO M461, ARO 241, TV12, Jeep Willys, Fiat Campagnola, UAZ 469, Toyota BJ46, Mercedes G, and last, but certainly not least, my VOLVO TP21. We enjoyed the weekend bathing in the Danube, having a BBQ, playing with our cars on the beach dunes, and experiencing driving each others vehicles. It's nice to jump from the 800kg of the Willys, to the 2550 kg of the Volvo, then drive the Fiat Campagnola which has the feeling of a street car, the Toyota Bj46 with it's mighty torquey diesel and cruise at speed with the ARO241 (independent front suspension, a design well ahead of its foreign counterparts in the 70's).

best summer utility for the radio mast holders

testing the new front springs - pliant and more comfortable

brothers in arms

summer camo...

Rebuild carbs (Rochester) can be found on ebay.com (US). Not cheap, though. Put the carb code and Rochester in the search line. Be aware there are different models, but the exact part can be found. On the other hand, I think the problem on yours can be the floater rubbing on the carb walls. Open it and check for marks, then adjust the floater (by gentle bend of the arms) to work properly.

My guess is thickness of the sleeve was 5mm or less...

I have no idea what the thickness of the sleeve was. ID was about standard 84,14mm, different for each piston according to their wear. Basically each piston was measured and 0,05mm added.

DEL II, pag 5 as I understand (swedish language speakers, pls help!) cylinder diameter standard is 84,14mm, largest possible rebore (repair) 86,17mm

Nope. But I made it large 20x20 cm. You can take the spare wheel out and cut. Positioning of the cut is not precise.

I have cut a large hole just above the sender in the panel. The spare wheel won't mind... Or drop the fuel tank. By the way, I had to mount a new sender and a new gauge, as the old ones were in very poor non-working condition, far beyond repair. Is there any way to make the old gauge read what the sender says, in other words is there a new sender available on the market matching the original gauge ?

Does anyone know the dimension of the front axle leaf springs centerbolt 'head' - the cylinder shape end which goes into the axle to fit the spring in the correct position? I need it as I'm trying to make new springs and I can't measure it without taking the spring off the vehicle. Diameter and height.

inside

not exactly front cover, but sort off...

Won today's classic car rally Bucharest-Giurgiu in E class (1947-1960) ! Difficult in a car using a 1935 tech engine and unsincronised gearbox, plus a non-working odometer, but did it !

best option is to sleeve them in stainless. trouble free. with Toyota somebody tried, but still there are modifications to do - I can't remember if he posted the end result

Usually, rims can be restored with specialized tools (press), but I was told it might not work on welded rims. If you did it, and had a good result, I'll give it a try,,,

maybe I did not found the right world - they wobble I want some rims which would be properly build, maybe not welded ...

Does anyone know a (modern) replacement rim which would fit the Sugga ? Originals are very decentered, and I want to replace them and get rid off the steering wheel balance.