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SBA111

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  1. Du kanske har fotogen i förångarspiralen (den som ska värmas) då förångas det och kyler under förvärmningen. Det jag menar är att den långa eldkastarstrålen tyder på det. Kanske kranen läcker?
  2. Hello HalfSafe, appreciate your interest, the file is on it's way up. I have a slow uplink, check again tomorrow or so ... EDIT:: Now ((21:25)) it has finished uploading!
  3. I just rember having the english version of the work shop manual lying around also. Might be of interest to our friends that have not yet learned swedish!! The pictures are of low resolution in this manual.
  4. Seems that many download servers for operators manual, parts manual, electrical wiring diagram etc has gone offline one by one. I have put up a new download opportunity here. It will be available until I need the space for something else.
  5. I have put some documents here for you, parts catalogue, schematic, operators handbook, ...
  6. The accelerator switch is closing to ground when the pedal is pushed and open when the pedal is up. The gearbox control box then tries to pull up wire 536 to 24V. The pullup inside the control box is quite weak (2.2 kOhm) and a little moisture in the switch can easily win over 2.2 kOhm.. So adding an extra pullup resistor between wire 536 and wire 503 will help. Personally I use a 2W control lamp for this. This lamp is mounted in the spare hole for the power take off control lamp. Then you can also verify the function of the switch, lamp only on when the pedal is pushed. When wire 536 is grounded the gearbox control box refuses to engage V or T in the distribution gearbox leaving the distribution gearbox in idle. This is confusing, if you dont know about this you would never suspect the accelerator switch.
  7. Sounds that you did not believe that the switch has anything to do with your problem. Did you really check the switch? It will not make anything rev more than before. Measure the voltage on wire 536. It must be 24V otherwise there will be no "clunk". The switch if closed will prevent "the clunk" from happening. You are allowed to disengage the drive wheels but not get them engaged again. Pulling the upper plug on the selector box will give you a pulse on wire 508 (D) even if the switch is faulty. Switching power off and on can also work but not reliably, maybe after a few tries.
  8. The most likely fault in this case is the accelerator pedal switch. It is a microswitch at the front of the cab. If this switch is corroded it will signal falsely that the pedal is pressed and then the distributor gearbox will not go from neutral to drive.
  9. Så här långt kom jag innan jag tappade orken. Använde en layouteditor jag inte var van vid (Eagle) och missade att dom hade en footprint på 74AC151 som var väldigt ovanlig. Kanske tar upp projektet igen, vet inte ...
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